Gallipoli, Where the Nonnas Still Make Pasta

History, seafood, and quiet charm

Gallipoli, on the southern Ionian coastline of Puglia, Italy, was first settled by the Greeks and named "Kallipolis", which means Beautiful City. During the ensuing 2,000-plus years, it was ruled by the Romans, the Normans, the Spanish, and the Bourbons. Most recently, it and all of Puglia became part of unified Italy in 1861.

Gallipoli is one of our favorite cities in Puglia. When we arrived there, one morning, around 9 am, the beach in Old Town was already gathering sunbathers. After strolling the perimeter of Old Town and wandering through the alleys filled with stores and cafes, we settled for a lunch of salad and grilled swordfish.

Through an open kitchen window, Cass spied this lovely Nonna rolling pasta. She graciously let me take her picture.